Bottom Lash Extensions

What are Bottom Lash Extensions?

Bottom lash extensions are a beauty trend that takes the lash game to the next level. Unlike standard, traditional lash extensions applied to the upper lashes, bottom lash extensions consist of the application of lash extensions to the natural lower lashes, providing a more balanced, yet dramatic look by accentuating the lower lash line. This blog will explore the application of bottom lash extensions, who would best suit them, recommended tweezers, tapes and adhesives for the treatment and the removal of them. Upgrade your treatment list with this effective extension add-on, and discover all things bottom lashes!

What lashes should be used for Bottom Lash Extensions?

In order to create stunning bottom lash sets, you should first begin with the best products for the treatment! When completing these sets, it is important to choose a subtle curl. Curls such as C and D may be too harsh, potentially causing irritation to the clients' skin where the lash curves down into the face. For best results, we would recommend a J Curl, for ease of application and that subtle yet effective look. Our Bottom J Curl lashes come in Shorter Length trays, ranging from 5mm-8mm lengths. Each box contains 16 rows, with 4 rows of each length, and are available in 0.05mm and 0.07mm thicknesses to achieve a natural, effortless lower lash look. It is important to opt for lighter lashes when working with the bottom lashes, as they tend to be more fair and weaker than upper lashes. Pinkfishes Bottom Lash Trays are available online or in-store for £11.45.

(Pinkfishes Bottom Lashes - J Curl 0.07)

How much should you charge for a Bottom Lashes add-on?

As any set, prices can vary depending on how you charge; by hour, by service etc. Assuming that a Russian set costs £50 for two hours, so £25 per hour, it would be reasonable to charge between £10 - £20 on top of the upper lash service for bottom lashes, depending on product cost and the time it takes. Bottom lash application should take around 30 minutes at most, and therefore around £10 - £15 would be reasonable for 30 minutes of extra lashing time.

You may also want to alter the costs depending on the desired look. For example, if a client only wants around 8 lashes (you do not need to lash every lash when doing bottom lash sets) per eye, look to charge around £10 extra. However, if a client wants a fuller look where more of the natural lashes are covered, look towards the £15 - £20 mark, depending on coverage and time and your pricing strategy. Adding bottom lashes to your treatment list is the perfect way to make more money without having to find new clients, and it may even attract new clients anyway!

Who should get Bottom Lash Extensions?

Bottom lash extensions typically achieve a more dramatic look, however the style can be tailored to the desired preference. We would only recommend bottom lashes to those who already have top lashes on, to avoid a facial imbalance. So which clients would suit bottom lash extensions?

Bottom lash extensions are the perfect alternative to everyday mascara, and therefore lower lash mascara lovers may benefit from this add on to their lash treatment. Adding lash extensions to the lower lashes, whether full or natural, can enhance the lower lash line just as mascara, reducing the time to get ready in the morning or before a big night out!

These extensions can also have varying results, depending on the eye shape. Bottom lashes may be beneficial for clients with small eyes, looking to enhance them and make them pop, or appear more open. Equally, the extensions can be effective in enhancing bigger eyes, brightly coloured eyes or anyone that just wants that little bit more from their lash appointments!

Clients who opt for mega volume or thick Russiansets would suit the look, as bottom lashes are typically associated with a more dramatic, fuller look. Lower lashes may accentuate the volume and intensity of the set, and therefore may be suited to clients who already opt for fuller sets and darker lash lines. For the fuller look, we would recommend either 0.07 J Curl lashes, or 2/3D 0.05 J Curl closed fans for best results.

However, bottom lash extensions can be tailored to the preferred look, and therefore can be applied to create a more natural yet still effective set. It is important to recognise that in completing a bottom lash set, not all of the natural lashes need to be covered. The exact amount is based on the desired look, however we would suggest anything between 8-25 lashes per eye, depending on the intended fullness of the set.

Who should avoid Bottom Lash Extensions

Whilst bottom lash extensions can effectively transform any set, they unfortunately aren't suitable for everyone. So who should avoid bottom lash extensions?

Some clients' natural lashes may face in an upward direction, and therefore lower lash extensions may cause irritation to the eye and surrounding areas, as well as being difficult to apply, and potentially not giving the desired look.

Equally, the health and appearance of the lower natural lashes may implicate whether a client should get bottom lash extensions. Clients with significantly short natural bottom lashes may be less suitable for these extensions, as it may effect the retention of the lashes. Similarly, sparse natural lashes may cause the extensions to appear unfinished, or the application of such may affect the health of the already weak/sparse natural lashes. It may instead be advisable to suggest a lower lash tint for such clients, or suggest a serum such as Pinkfishes Longer Lengths Lash, Brow and Hair Serum to improve the health and condition of the lower lashes before opting for a bottom lash set.

Such factors can be discussed with the client during a Lash Consultation to assess whether bottom lash extensions would be a suitable treatment add-on. Read more on what to include in a lash consultation here.

How to Apply Lower Lash Extensions

Prepping & Priming

In any lash treatment, prepping is arguably the most important step, especially regarding bottom lash extensions. At Pinkfishes, we offer a range of products for you to successfully complete an add-on set of bottom lashes.

Use tape/gel eye pads to isolate the lower lashes from the skin, this should be applied underneath the lower lashes. This can assist in visibility of the natural lashes, as well as protecting the client from sharp tweezers or excess glue reaching the face and skin directly.

(Eye Pads under the lower lashes)

A bottom lash set follows on from completing a normal set of lash extensions, so it's important to take care in moving the upper lashes out of the way, without unintentionally damaging or removing them. To do this effectively, we recommend various tapes to lift the upper lashes whilst ensuring comfort for the client, such as;Silicone Gel Tape,Micropore Tape orSensitive Tape.When carrying out a bottom lash set, we would suggest opting for taping methods over gel eye pads, due to the moisture from the pads themselves potentially affecting the upper lashes. Instead, using a lash tape should maintain the condition of the already-applied extensions. Place the tape horizontally across the upper lashes, gently lifting the eyelid without opening the eye. It is imperative for the client to NOT have open eyes during the lower lash treatment due to irritation from the glue, discomfort and risk of product entering the eye. To lift the lids and lashes further, you could also use Pinkfishes Eyelid Tape.

(Taping the Upper Lashes)

The natural lower lashes must then be primed, just as you would upper lashes. However, the priming step is significantly important in a bottom lash set, where the lower lashes are exposed more directly to the skin's contact and oils. Therefore, priming the lower lashes is imperative before applying extensions to aid retention. To prime, we recommend Pinkfishes' Pink Creation primer and microfibre brushes.

(Priming the lower lashes)

Application

Once the lashes are prepped and primed, you can begin the application process. For bottom lashes, the service is typically an add-on treatment, and should only take up to an additional 30 minutes (approximately). Discuss with the client their desired look, and select your lashes accordingly. We recommend our J Curl Bottom Lashes in Shorter Lengths between 5-8mm.

Whether you normally place your lash strips on the back of your hand, on a glass palette or on a box, place the strip upside down, as shown.

(Strip placed upside down)

Then take your tweezer of choice and pick up the lash from the right hand side as you would normally. We would recommend the below, depending on the desired look, however this can be altered to suit your client and their preferences.

For using 0.05 lashes - pick up 2-3 lashes and create a closed fan.

For using 0.07 lashes- use one extension lash per each natural lash.

Once you have picked up the lash/lashes, flip the tweezer so that the curl is directed downward, toward the face as shown:

(Lifting the lashes and turning so the curl is facing downward)

Just as a standard set, ensure you are isolating the natural lash before application to avoid damage, discomfort and messy-looking lashes.

Use a thin viscosity or clear glue to then apply the extension to the natural bottom lash. In bottom sets, you typically would not cover every natural lash. Instead, depending on the requested look, apply between 8-25 lashes per eye.

In terms of mapping, we would suggest applying shorter lashes toward the inner and outer corners of the lower lash line.

Once the desired amount of lashes have been applied to each eye, apply a sealant such as the Pinkfishes Pink Elixir to aid retention. For bottom lashes, we would advise using a bonder as the retention can be worse for bottom lashes than standard.

(Bottom Lash Application Video by @thehouseofkb)

Use Pinkfishes' Lash Fan to assist the adhesive in curing, alongside soothing any irritation to the clients' eyes. Why not try out our Macro Lens to get some professional-looking pics of your dramatic creations, so you can share your new service with friends and followers?

Retention

It is important to recognise the difference in retention times of bottom lash extensions in comparison to standard lash extensions. Due to the positioning of the lower lash line, bottom lashes tend to last a significantly less time of around 1-2 weeks approx., due to various factors such as:

Clients being more likely to rub the lower lash line area.
The minimal amount of glue suggested to be used to avoid a clumpy appearance.
The lashes being significantly closer to the skin, meaning more exposure to oils etc.

These factors, alongside the approximate retention time, should be discussed with the client ahead of the treatment to avoid disappointment.

Which Tweezers and Adhesives to use

In any set of extensions, the outcome can highly rely on the products used. This applies also to bottom lash extensions, and the overall result can depend on the tweezers and adhesive you select.

Bottom lashes may be a little more fiddly to do than upper lash extensions, especially for the first few times, so it's important to find tweezers that work well for you. Due to the thicknesses of the bottom lashes (0.05 & 0.07), we would suggest a precision tweezer with strong grip for picking and placing, such as:

Our Fibre Tip and Elite tweezers are specially designed for gripping the lashes, and would be perfect when carrying out this service.

For isolation, a curved tip tweezer may be easier for lower lashes. We would suggest the following for ease of isolation:

For bottom lash extensions, the adhesive can significantly effect the outcome and appearance of the set. The adhesive used on these sets must be minimal to avoid a clumpy appearance, so we would recommend a glue with thin viscosity, or clear in colour. This will assist in avoiding any thick, chunky bases, and make the bottom lash extensions appear more natural where the glue is thin/clear. For thin viscosity, opt for our Pink Radical 2 black adhesive. However, due to the fast curing time of Pink Radical 2, you may prefer to use a clear glue such as Pink Supreme Clear or Pink Nakedour sensitive clear glue.

How to remove Bottom Lash Extensions

Bottom lashes are removed similarly to upper lashes, however more care is required to not let any product enter the eye whilst also avoiding removal products touching the upper lashes and lash line. For bottom lash extension removals, we would suggest using a cream remover, such as our Pink Crème Adhesive Remover, for fast, effective removal.

Still want to know more? Our E-Learning 'Styling and Mapping Video' covers the application of bottom lashes. Purchase here.

Now you've read this blog, you should know everything you'll need to carry out an add-on set of bottom lash extensions. It's the perfect addition to any set where the client is looking to make their eyes pop, or wants that dramatic look. Transform your sets, and add bottom lash extensions to your treatment list.