The Different Methods of Making a Volume Fan

The Different Methods of Making a Volume Fan

Making great volume fans really is the difference between being a good lash tech and a great one, and getting to this point can take years of practice. This is why we always say in our training courses that it is so important that you continue to practice, even when you think you’ve got it, as you can always find ways to improve and get better.

There are quite a few different methods of achieving a great fan, and we will take a look into each one shortly. But first, we’re going to look at what a perfect fan actually looks like. Firstly, the key to a fan that will bond well to your natural lash and have great retention, is getting a nice tight pointy base. Lashes that come together in a cluster will wrap much better around the natural lash, leading to better retention and better natural lash health. This type of fan can be placed anywhere on the natural lash and will still get a great bond to it. If the base is flat, it can only really be applied on top, or underneath the natural lash. This creates a ‘black-out’ effect on the lash line, however if it isn’t bonded correctly to the natural lash, it can create a platform on the natural lash, allowing the extension to be brushed off easily. Finally, a stacked base is when all the extensions in the fan are stacked on top of each other. This type of fan should only be applied to the side of a natural lash, and this is great to correct any directional issues a natural lash might have.

A great fan also has perfectly even spaces between each of the lashes within the fan. When the lashes are evenly spaced, it means the weight is evenly distributed which is much healthier for the natural lash. If it is unevenly distributed, it can cause the natural lash to twist, and potentially cause it to loosen from the follicle prematurely.

There are also 2 different styles of fan that we can create – wide or narrow (or short/long stem). These names work together because if we want a wide fan, we need to create a shorter base to allow the lashes to fan out wider. However to keep the fan narrow, we need to create a longer stem to ensure the lashes are kept closer together at the tip. Both of these fans will create different looks when used in a set of lashes; wide fans will create a fluffier look, whereas narrow fans will create a more uniformed, dense look. The particular look your client wants will determine which type of fan you should use throughout the set.
So now we know what a perfect fan looks like, how can we create them? There are lots of different methods out there, and we really can’t stress enough that you should try them all and find what works better for you, because it is different for everyone. And creating perfect fans will only work if you can find a method that works well for you every time. So here are a few of the more popular methods of creating fans and how best to master them.

The Pinch Method 

 Uses your thumb and finger, alongside your tweezer, to create a fan. It’s a great method for creating wide fans for fluffy sets. Start by taking some lashes off the strip and holding them firmly in your tweezer. Then using your thumb and finger, pinch the base, being careful not to roll the base between your fingers. Whilst pinching, slowing release the pressure on your tweezer to allow the lashes to fan out. You can wiggle the tweezer to manipulate the positioning of the lashes and once happy, dip the fan into the glue and apply. It’s commonly misunderstood that the control comes from the pinching fingers in this method, when in fact it all comes from the hand controlling the tweezer. The amount of pressure you have on the tweezer, and how much you release it will really effect the look of your fan. So it’s important to start small, and gradually release the pressure bit by bit to allow the lashes to move in small movements. If you open your tweezer, or release the pressure too much, then the lashes will begin to twist and this can be really hard to pull back.

The Wiggle Method 

Is a really popular method used for its high speed when it has been mastered. Start by gripping a section of lashes nice and close to the base – you may need to slightly lift the lashes off the strip to achieve this. Then wiggle your tweezers left to right along the lashes while adjusting the grip, allowing the lashes to fan out. Once happy with the look of the fan, grip the fan between your tweezers and lift the fan off the strip towards you. This will ensure your base comes together in a tight point, instead of fraying out all over the place. Don’t worry too much if it isn’t perfectly together though, as when you dip it in the glue, it will naturally come together into a nice base.

The Lift Off and Tap Method

Or Lift and Place as it is sometimes known, is a really good method for beginners as it allows full control of the lashes and allows you to create perfectly symmetrical fans. Start by picking up a section of lashes and placing it back down on a sticky part of the strip. Then using the point of your tweezer, tap the lashes at the base to fan each lash outwards. Once happy, grip the fan between your tweezer and pull off of the strip in one motion. Its so important here that you have tweezers with a great grip, otherwise some of the lashes may move/fall out when picking it up, thus ruining the beautiful fan you have just created.

The Lift and Roll Method 

Is created on the strip and starts by lifting a section of lashes slightly off the strip, to release the top portion and free it for movement. Then, using your tweezer, you roll the lashes out to create an evenly distributed fan. Once happy, grip the fan between your tweezer, dip in the glue and apply.

Check out our full range of tweezers here. If you try out any of these methods - let us know which one is your favourite.

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