How long do Russian Lashes Last?
Russian lash extensions are a staple in the lash industry, loved for their ability to add volume and length to clients lashes. If you a lash artist or someone considering getting a set of Russian lash extensions then this blog is for you! We will dive deep into everything you need to know including; how fans are created, different styles that can be achieved, who they are best suited for (and who should steer clear) as well as how Russian lash sets are effected by the lash cycle.
What are Russian eyelash extensions?
Russian Lash Extensions, otherwise referred to as volume lashes, are a technique that involves using a group of lightweight lash extensions, creating them into a fan and then applying to a clients natural lash. Russian fans are glued together at the base and then open out into a fanned tip, creating volume and dimension. Traditionally, the fans are hand-made, however as the style of extension has gained popularity, a variety of Pre-Fanned and Pro-Made lashes have been developed, simplifying the process and eliminating the need to create fans manually.
(Russian Lash Extensions by @beautybygeorgialeigh)
Russian volume fansare normally created using 0.03, 0.05 or 0.07 thickness lashes, because they are significantly lighter in comparison to classic lash extensions, this is to maintain lash health and ensure comfort. These lash extensions are available in a wide range of curls, lengths and colours.
These extensions are typically used to create darker and fuller sets, however are completely customisable; they can be tailored to lighter sets, closed-fan sets (angel) and more, making them an essential for every lash techs' lash trolley!
Fanning Methods
The Russian lash technique was developed in the early 2000's and involves the process of creating fans from ultra-fine synthetic lashes that are thenapplied to each individual natural lash. To create these fans there are various hand made methods you can try but here are some of the most popular ways;
The Pinch Method - this method refers to the technique of picking up a few lashes (number depending on the thickness and desired look), and slightly loosening the grip of the tweezer, before using the index finger and thumb to pinch the base into a tight, thin stem, fanning the tip of the lashes. The fan is then ready to be dipped into the adhesive and applied to the natural lash.
The Wiggle Method- this technique is all about creating a fan on the lash extension strip. Simply pick up a few lashes from the strip, replace them on the sticky part of the strip, and use the tweezer to wiggle the lashes into creating a fan. The fan can then be picked up using tweezers, dipped into adhesive and applied to the natural lash!
Easy Fan Lashes- Pinkfishes Easy Fan Lash Traysare pre-glued at the base, allowing for fans to be created without falling apart if the grip of the tweezer is loosened. For example, when using the pinch method, if you pinch the lashes into the desired fan and release the tweezer grip, the fan will hold its form at the base, allowing for a simpler process of fanning!
Fan Dimensions
In order to create Russian fans that don't cause strain on the natural lashes and have the desired finished look, we must consider the amount of individual fibres that go in to creating a single fan, and this will depend on both the clients' natural lashes, and the thickness of the lashes being used.
0.10mm - between 2-3 0.10mm lashes can be used to make up a fan. 0.10 thickness lashes should only be used on healthy, strong natural lashes as they are a heavier option of lash extension for Russian sets. Due to their heaviness you can only create small dimension fans with this thickness meaning very light Russian sets.
0.07mm - up to 8 x 0.07mm lashes can be used to make up a single fan. 0.07 lashes are still quite heavy for Russian lash sets so are normally used to create light/medium volume lash sets.
0.05mm - up to 12 x 0.05mm lashes can be used to make up a single fan. 0.05 thickness is the most popular at Pinkfishes as it is versatile as light weight so can create volume whilst also being easy to work with.
0.03mm - up to 16 x 0.03mm lashes can be used to make up a single fan. 0.03 lashes are often referred to as Mega Volume as they are the lightest lashes so can be used to create the largest dimension fans creating the most volume.
Deciding on the exact number of lashes in a fan will depend greatly on the condition of the clients' natural lashes and the look they want to achieve. Those with weaker, thin, or damaged natural lashes should have smaller dimensions and lighter weight extensions used to prevent strain or excessive weight on the natural lash. Clients with fuller, strong and healthy natural lashes can have thicker or a larger dimension lashes however excessive weight can still cause strain and damage, as well as affecting the retention of the set.
For a deeper insight into lash weights and fanning, check out our blog, 'Lash Weights: how many lashes can i have in a fan?' here.
Pre-Fanned vs Pro-Made Russian Lashes
At Pinkfishes, we offer two types of ready-to-use Russian fans that assist in speeding up treatment times by removing the need to make fans manually: Pre-Fanned and Pro-Made Lashes. So, what are the differences between them?
Pinkfishes Pro-Made lashes closely mimic the look of handmade fans. These lashes are available in a variety of dimensions, ranging from our lightest Pro-Made, in 4D, to 20D, for the fullest, mega volume look. We recommend pairing our Pro-Made lashes with our Pink Silicone Pad to assist with application as our pro-made lashes come loose in the box. Pro-made lashes are also extremely cost effective, costing as little as 3p per fan.
Pre-Fanned lashes give a more perfectly symmetrical appearance, and come in trays where the fans are laid out evenly on a strip making them quick and easy to apply directly from the tray.
The choice of pre-fanned or pro-made fans depends on the desired look and personal preference of the lash tech, both allowing for you to achieve stunning Russian volume sets!
How Russian Lashes can be used in different sets
The beauty of Russian lash extensions is their versatility and ability to create such a range of different, unique sets to suit the desired outcome of the client. Below are some other ways in which Russian lash extensions can be used to create sets aside from the traditional Russian lash set:
Mega Volume - These sets are created using Mega Volume 0.03mm lashes, allowing for the most amount of lashes to go into one fan, resulting in the fullest Russian Volume look. Perfect for clients looking for a dramatic, dark lash look.
(Mega Volume Lash Set)
Angel Lashes - These sets can be created using 0.03mm lashes, and involve a set of closed fans made up of around 5 individual fibres to create a wispy set with slightly more volume than a classic set. Ideal for clients looking for something natural, yet wispy.
(Hand-Made Angel Lash Set by @dolledbyh.x)
Hybrid Sets - the combination of Classic Lash extensions and Russian fans to create a light volume set. Typically a 50:50 ratio of Classics to Russians, however can be tailored to suit the clients desired thickness. Suitable for clients looking for the perfect in-between of Classic and Russian lashes.
(Hybrid Lashes by @thehouseofkb)
Different Variations of Russian Lash Trays
As one of the most popular types of lash extension, Pinkfishes have developed various other lash trays that can be used to create Russian lash sets, each with a slightly different look/finish. Here are some of our newest/best-selling developments of the Russian Lash:
Cashmere - Cashmere lash extensions are one of our most popular alternatives to standard Russian lash trays, creating stunning sets instead with a matte finish. These lashes are also lighter than standard Russians, making them super-soft and fluffy.
Ultra Matte - Pinkfishes Ultra Matte lash trays are available in C, CC and D curl mixed length boxes, and are 90% matte grade, making them the most matte of all our Russian lashes so far! These lash trays are perfect for clients who want to give the illusion of an even darker, dramatic lash look.
Brown - Our brown range is available in both medium and dark brown shades in both 0.03mm, 0.05mm and 0.07mm thicknesses, and is perfect for clients looking for the volume of a Russian lash extension set without the harshness of the standard black Russian lash trays. Also perfectly suited to compliment natural features.
Coloured - Add a pop of colour into your clients' sets with our warm and cool toned Russian lash trays, available in 0.07mm thicknesses!
Who should get Russian Eyelashes?
Whilst Russian Eyelash Extensions are customisable, the traditional technique typically achieves a fuller, more dramatic look than that of Classic Lash Extensions. Therefore, this style of lash extension are better suited for clients looking for a more noticeable, dramatic enhancement to the eye, as the individual fans create more dimension and an overall darker lash line.
Russian extensions are also a great option for clients going on holiday for a longer amount of time, and needing lash extensions that will last. Whilst Russian lash extensions don't physically last longer than other extensions, the collection of fans that make up the set can give the illusion that the set is fuller for longer, whereby the expansion of the fans creates a 'gap filling' effect that classic lashes or closed fans won't achieve.
For those with lighter features, or looking for a less harsh look but still wanting volume, our Brown Russian volume lash extensions may be a better suited option, available in both medium and dark brown. The brown pigment compliments natural features for a softer yet still voluminous finish!
(Dark Brown 0.05 Russian Set with Spikes by @lashesbyjadeh)
Who should avoid Russian eyelash extensions?
Russian lashes are a fuller option of extension, perhaps less suitable for clients looking for light, natural enhancements. Whilst Russian lashes can still be used to create tailored sets to suit the clients' preferences, some individuals, due to preference and natural features, would benefit from steering away from Russian lashes and opting for alternative lash extension options, such as Classics or even a lash lift and tint. Clients with smaller eyes looking to achieve the illusion of a wider/more open eye look may instead better benefit from a classic or angel lash set. Russian lashes may hide or darken the eye area of clients with deep-set eyes. Mature clients tend to better suit lighter lash styles such as classics, as Russian lashes can create a droopy look, or may appear too heavy in appearance for them.
Russian Lash Retention
So, how long do Russian lashes last? Unfortunately, there is no exact answer as to exactly how long any lash extensions will last, however looking at various factors such as the lash cycle, lash adhesive and prep/aftercare helps us to determine an approximation of around 4-6 weeks, with infills required after 2-3 weeks to keep sets looking fuller. In this section, we will identify ways to aid the retention of Russian Lashes, to avoid premature loss of the extensions.
The Lash Cycle
The natural lashes run on a cycle of approximately 6-8 weeks, in which time growth, shedding and regrowth takes place. We identify these phases biologically as:
Anagen - The Growth Phase. In this time, the new lash is growing to its full length.
Catagen - The Transition Phase. The natural lash begins to detach from the blood supply as it reaches full growth.
Telogen - The Resting Phase. The lash has reached its full growth, is detached, and prepares to shed, ready for the new Anagen lash to emerge.
Early Anagen - The Cycle Restarts. As the old lash sheds, a new Anagen lash grows through, beginning the cycle over again.
(The Lash Growth Cycle)
So, how will this affect your lash extensions? All lash extensions including Russian Lashes are applied to the natural lash itself, therefore, as the natural lash goes through its growth and shedding cycle, the extension grows out and sheds with it! However all your lashes may not be in the exact same stage of the cycle, hence why we only lose 2-5 lashes on average per day, and one of the reasons why all extensions don't last a 6-8 week period.
So, why do lash techs recommend getting infills after 2-3 weeks? This too, relates to the lash cycle process. Whilst your lashes may still appear full in the weeks following your lash appointment, your extensions are still going through the growth cycle with the natural lashes, and will therefore grow out simultaneously. So, whilst the lashes may appear full, your lash tech will have to remove and reapply the outgrown extensions to avoid drooping, gaps and visual imbalances. Grown out lashes can also lead to twisting making it uncomfortable on the eyes or irritating.
Russian Lash Retention Boosters
Whilst the natural lash cycle is an unavoidable process causing extension lash loss, there are other retention-aiding products and techniques that can be used to prevent, or reduce, the premature loss of Russian lash extensions.
Prepping the lashes - The key to a long-lasting lash set is to work with a clean, blank canvas. To achieve this, prep of the natural lashes is essential, and can be carried out using a lash shampoo, cleanser, protein pads etc. For clients with more oily skin around the eye area, a primer may also be beneficial to allow the adhesive to attach the extension seamlessly to the natural lash.
Washing the lashes- It is imperative to wash lash extensions daily/every other day, to avoid the premature breakdown of glue from oils and build up, as well as maintaining the fluff of a Russian set. Lack of cleaning plus a build up of dirt and oils can result in fans closing, clumping together, and bacteria building in and around the eye area.
Bonder/Sealant - Applying a bonder/sealant such as our Pink Elixir can assist in curing and bonding the lash adhesive to the natural lashes at the end of a set, easing irritation and acting as a sealant to assist in better retention.
Lash Wrapping - Unlike standard classic lash extensions, handmade Russian fans allow for the base of the extensions to be 'wrapped' around the natural lash, further assisting in better retention. Simply create the fan, dip in the adhesive and place on the natural lash, applying light pressure downwards, or make slight movements of the tweezer to wiggle and wrap the individual fibres around the lash.
No Rubbing/Picking - Picking or rubbing the lash extensions can lead to premature loss, and may not only affect the extensions, but can cause damage to, and loss of, the natural lashes. Picking out the lashes prematurely can disrupt the entire lash cycle, causing noticeable gaps within the natural lashes.
Aftercare - carrying out proper aftercare of the lashes is key to longer lasting sets. Ensure the extensions are being washed daily/ every other day with a lash shampoo to maintain the fluffy appearance and remove any excess dirt/oils that can cause the breakdown of the adhesive., as well as avoiding long heat exposure, sunbeds, steam-rooms etc. Retailing on aftercare kits & cards to clients is a great way of ensuring they have everything needed to carry out proper aftercare between appointments.
Russian lashes are a timeless addition to the lash industry, their versatility allowing for a wide variety of sets to be created to suit the clients' desired outcome. Now you know more about Russian lashes, including the technique, fanning, the lash cycle and ways to aid retention, you should now hopefully understand how long Russian lash extensions last, and ways to maximise the retention for long lasting results.
