Choosing The Right Shield For Lash Lifts
Lash lifting has evolved rapidly, and with the rise of alternative systems like Cysteamine-based formulas for Korean inspired lash lifts, understanding how tools—especially shields—affect your results is more important than ever. While products often take centre stage, shield selection can make or break the final look.
In this guide, we’ll break down the differences between shields, how to choose the right one for your client, how to apply them and it’s packed full of PRO TOP TIPS!
Understanding The Formula Difference
Before diving into shields, it’s important to understand why they matter depending on the system you’re using.
TGA Systems (traditional lash lift method) work quickly to break down the hair structure. They’re highly effective but less forgiving when it comes to shield placement errors. The solution is only placed part of the way up the lash, so it’s mainly the shape of the bottom half of the shield that we need to pay attention to.
(Pinkfishes lash lift kit)
Cysteamine Systems (Korean inspired lash lift method) are gentler and slower at processing. The ingredients are less potent and so it generally results in healthier lashes. For this method, the solution is applied across the whole lash and so the entire shape of the shield is important.
(Pinkfishes Cysteamine kit, used for Korean inspired lash lifts)
Different systems and methods mean different shields. However, here we will explore how shields that are meant for one technique can also be used for the other. There are lots of options – we’ve got you!
Shield Types: The Basics
Shields are generally made from silicone – all of the Pinkfishes range are. This makes them versatile, easy to manipulate and therefore great to work with. There are standard shields that need to be adhered to the eyelids. There are also newer glueless shields that are simply placed onto the eyelid without the need for any other products to keep them in place. Glueless shields are still made from silicone, but a more flexible and grippy type.
At Pinkfishes, we stock four main ranges of lash lift shields:
Standard Shields (usually used for TGA lash lift method) – In sizes S, M and L. The small shield is the flattest and will give the most upright lift – the medium shield is slightly more raised so will still give a great lift but is more forgiving for certain eye shapes – and then the large shield has a bigger protrusion so the lashes will gain more of a curled effect, best for longer lashes.
(Pinkfishes Standard Shield in size Medium)
Rounded Glueless Shields – Give a rounded curl to the lashes.
Pinkfishes Rounded glueless shields can be used for both TGA & Cysteamine lash lifts, the circular design helps to achieve a perfectly rounded curl to the lashes with lots of different size options (XS, S, M, L and XL). The smaller the shield = the tighter and ‘curlier’ the lash lift will turn out.
(Pinkfishes Rounded Glueless Shields)
Hybrid Glueless Shields – Lift and elongate the lashes.
Pinkfishes Hybrid glueless shields can be used for both TGA & Cysteamine lash lifts to give the lashes an elongated lift as opposed to a traditional curved lift. They step out at the base to bring the lashes outwards and then taper to a flatter shape to create the elongated look in the middle of the shield - thus making lashes appear longer and straighter. They come in a choice of 6 numbered sizes ranging from 1 being the smallest and 6 being the biggest.
(Pinkfishes Hybrid Glueless Shields)
Glueless Flat Shields - (used at the beginning of a Korean inspired lash lift).
Pinkfishes Flat Glueless Shields can be used for Korean inspired lash lifts using Pinkfishes Cysteamine system. These flat shields create a barrier to prevent step 1 (Pink Rise) from touching the eyelid during application and enable lash technicians to get to the roots of the lashes and provide better coverage of the solution.
(Pinkfishes Flat Glueless Shields)
Pinkfishes shields are all reusable makes them all much more cost effective! To clean and reuse the glueless shields, cleanse between clients by washing with an antibacterial soap, rinse, dry and then soak in a 70%+ alcohol solution. Then rinse again, dry and store in a clean, enclosed container.
How To Choose The Appropriate Shields For Your Client
When it comes to choosing the perfect shield for your client – here are some of the things you need to consider.
(Diagram showing the different parts of a lash shield)
Length Of Natural Lashes – It’s important to make sure there is enough room on the shield for your client’s lashes. If they have long lashes and the shield is too small, the lashes could go over the top of the shield and create a dent in the lift. On the other hand, if your client has short lashes, using a shield that is too big may produce and underwhelming curl, resulting in an unsatisfied customer.
Eye Shape & Practicality – Think about what is going to suit your clients eye shape. For example, if your client has a hooded eye shape and long lashes, if you use an XS shield in standard or a 1 in the Hybrid Glueless shields, this curl may be too ‘upright’ and elongated for them, and they may continuously tap the top of their eyelid. Instead, opt for a softer curl (like the Rounded glueless shields).
The Desired Outcome – Listen to your client! New client? Have a consultation and find out what look they would like to achieve. Photos can help with this – although always ensure you are realistic with what you can do with their natural lashes.
TOP TIP – Before applying any products, check that it’s a suitable shield for your client by placing it in position and using a microfibre brush to hold the lashes in place and see where they will sit/end up on the shield.
How To Apply The Different Shields
All shields should be applied in the same position – it’s just how you get there that’s slightly different.
Standard Shields - Apply Pinkfishes Bonding Serum to the back of the shield and then place the straight edge in position close to the root on the eyelid, hold in place for 20 seconds. Then when putting the lashes in place ready for step 1 of a TGA lash lift – apply the bonder on top of the shield in small sections and lift the lashes from the root using the lash lift tool to attach them to the shield. Gradually move along the shield until all lashes are bonded to the shields. Then proceed with the rest of the steps in the Pink Powerlift Treatment.
TOP TIP – Apply the inner corner of the shield to the inner corner of the eyelid first and then it’ll be easier to bend and manipulate the rest of the shield into place. You want it close to the lash line/roots without any gaps where you can see the skin – but also not overlapping the top row of lashes.
Glueless Flat Shields - Place the straight edge of the glueless flat shields close to the lash line before pulling the lashes back onto the shield for processing during step 1 (Pink Rise). Once processed, remove the product and fold the shield down to hold the lashes down whilst you replace the flat shield with your chosen shaped shield.
TOP TIP – Before applying the flat shields, apply a thin layer of Pinkfishes Berry Bond close to the lash line to create a barrier on the eyelid. This is to avoid any Pink Rise (Step 1) sitting on the skin at the root of the lashes for the whole of the processing time as this could possibly cause irritation for some clients.
(Pinkfishes Berry Bond)
Glueless Hybrid & Rounded Shields – Place the straight edge of the glueless shields close to the lash line – no glue required. Then pull the lashes back onto the shield via your chosen method and continue your treatment.
TOP TIP – Stand up and come round to face your clients when applying the any shields so you can see if they are placed in the correct position.
Want to learn how to lash lift or perfect your skills? Head over to www.pinkfishestraining.com to check out our range of course and masterclass options.
