The Ultimate Guide to Classic Lash Extensions
Classic Extensions are a staple in the lash industry, providing an enhancement to clients lashes, with a 1 to 1 application technique. In this blog, we will explore all things 'classic lash extensions', including what they are, the different variations of classic lashes, benefits, application and aftercare. Whether you're a lash technician or looking to get classic lash extensions, embark on your classic lash journey, and learn all there is to know about Classic Lash Extensions in this ultimate guide.
What are Classic Lash Extensions?
We hear about them all the time, but what actually are Classic Lash Extensions? Classic lashes enhance the natural lashes, adding length, curl and/or light volume through a 1:1 application method. This is where one singular lash extension is applied per each natural lash. Unlike Russian or Mega Volume lashes which consist of a few lightweight extensions made into a fan. Classic lashes are also thicker and slightly heavier, typically ranging from 0.10mm - 0.25mm thicknesses, this is because of the 1:1 aspect. These lashes are available in a variety of lengths, colours and curls, allowing them to be tailored to the clients eye shape and desired look. A classic lash full set can typically take between 1.5-2.5 hours, however this may vary depending on experience and the clients' natural lashes. Classic Lashes usually last 4-6 weeks, however an infill is recommended after 2-3 weeks due to the natural lash cycle to keep lashes looking full. If applied correctly and with proper isolation and aftercare, like other lash extensions, classic lashes will not affect the health of the natural lashes.
Standard vs Flat Classics
Whilst classics are widely recognised throughout the lash industry, Flat lashes may not be so familiar. However, Flat lashes also belong to the Classic Lash family - just a different variation! Classic lash extensions are available in two different styles; standard and flat. Standard classic lash extensions are circular in shape at the base, allowing for them to be applied either on top of, to the side of, or underneath the natural lash, depending on the curl and direction of the natural lashes. Flat classics, however, are crafted with a rhomboid-shape base, allowing for the natural lash to slot in to place like a puzzle piece when applied to the top of the lash. This shape creates a larger surface area for the natural lash to bond to, aiding in better retention and longer-lasting extensions. Flat Classic lashes are also commonly split tip, whereby the tip of the lash splits into two for a slightly fluffier look. Deciphering between which style of classic to go for can depend on a number of factors, including not only personal preference but the features of the natural lash; clients with extremely curly lashes may benefit more from standard classics, as these can be comfortably applied underneath or to the side of the natural lash, whereas flat lashes work best when applied to the top of the lash.
(Standard Classic Lash Extensions vs Flat Classic Lash Extensions Diagram)
Who should get Classic Lash Extensions?
So, now you know what classic lash extensions are, who should get them? Classic lashes are arguably the most natural style of lash extensions, closely mimicking that of natural eyelashes due to their 1:1 application method. Therefore, this style of lash is perfect for clients wanting a natural yet effective look, closely reflecting that of their natural lashes, but subtly adding a little more length or volume. Classic lashes are also the ideal recommendation for first-time lashers or younger clients to ease them into lash extensions.
Like any lash set, it is important to be aware that every classic lash set will look different, and this is based on various factors such as the condition of the natural lashes. The thickness, health and amount of natural lashes your client has will hugely affect the outcome of any classic set. Classic lashes are not made up of fans, and therefore don't have the same full, volume look that can be created in hybrid or Russian sets. If a client has sparse natural lashes and requests classic extensions to reduce the appearance of this, whilst you can add length, the sparseness or lack of natural lashes won't be masked to the extent that fans could. In cases like this, you could opt for a Hybrid set - this combines classic lash extensions with volume fans to create a slightly fuller look; perfect for masking gaps and sparseness! However, if the client is looking for a subtle enhancement or just to add length, then the classic lash treatment is a perfect option.
Classic lash extensions are available in a variety of lengths, curls and colours, so you can tailor to the client. At Pinkfishes, we offer black classics in both standard and flat styles, as well as medium and dark brown flat classics for an even more natural look. For clients looking for a more natural look, you can opt for a softer J, B, C or CC curl and perhaps shorter lengths (8-12mm), depending on preference. For a more noticeable or dramatic classic lash look, opt for a CC or D curl, and extend to lengths up to 14/15mm, depending on the desired outcome.
A common misconception with classic lash extensions is that they can't be as customised or full, however, with the wide range of Classic Lashes available, you can create varied, unique sets to suit your clients' preferences, such as spiked classic sets using our Pre-Made Spikes or longer length classic lashes - that's the beauty of lash extensions!
(Lash sets by @luxelashandbeautybar_, @opalbeautyuk & @beautybycole.x)
Choosing the Right Classic Lashes for your Client
Each client is different, and no two clients' natural lashes are the same, so this is something to consider when creating a classic lash set. Classic lashes come in a range of thicknesses (0.10mm, 0.15mm, 0.20mm, 0.25mm), and the natural lash health can help to determine which thickness is best to use.
For clients with full, healthy natural lashes, we would recommend 0.15 or 0.20, however this can vary on the desired outcome. For clients looking for a lighter, more natural look, or those with weaker/brittle lashes opt for a 0.10mm or 0.15mm. If a client has lots of natural lashes but wants a very natural set, it may be advisable to go for a lighter thickness, as volume will be built through the amount of lashes applied. Fuller classic sets can be achieved by using 0.20mm or 0.25mm, however bare in mind that the thicker classics hold more weight, and should therefore only be used on clients with healthy natural lashes. Choosing the incorrect thickness of classic lash extensions for your clients natural lash condition can cause greater/quicker lash loss, and in some cases can damage or affect the health of the natural lashes, so it is important to analyse them prior to lashing. We would recommend stocking both 0.15mm and 0.20mm thicknesses, so you're covered for various types of client!
Another factor to consider is the curl/direction of the natural lashes, as this can help to determine whether to use standard or flat classic lash extensions. Whilst flat lashes are ideal for straight, forward-facing natural lashes, whereby the rhomboid-shape base allows for the lash to slot in, extremely curly lashes may require for lash extensions to be applied underneath or at the side of the natural lash, to avoid poor retention or the extension pinging off during application. Therefore, due to the horizontally wider area of a flat lash, these may not be the best option, and the client may benefit more from the cylindrical shape of a standard classic lash. Choosing the better suited type of classic lash will assist in aiding better retention, so bare this in mind when analysing the type of natural lash you're working with.
Consider what your client wants from their classic lash appointment. For those looking for a natural yet full, noticeable look, opt for a black lash for a darker, defined finished. For clients looking for a more natural look, why not opt for a brown classic set? Brown lashes are perfect for clients with fairer skin, lighter or brown hair, or just looking for a softer lash look overall! Here at Pinkfishes, we supply flat classics in both medium and dark brown shades, and would recommend supplying both black and brown classic lashes as the 'natural' trend continues to grow throughout the industry.
Pros & Cons of Classic Lashes
Classic lash extensions have lots of benefits however, they won't be for everyone...here's everything to consider when working with, or before getting a set of Classics.
As previously covered, due to the 1:1 application classic lashes are the most natural option of extension. This makes classics the ideal option for first-time lash clients, as they can appear less harsh and contrasting to the natural features. Getting lash extensions for the first time can be quite a dramatic change, even when opting for lighter sets, so classic lash extensions in a 0.10mm or 0.15mm thickness, and perhaps even brown, can be the best option to reduce the dramatic transformation in appearance. Classics may also further be advisable for more mature clients who are not looking for anything too bold, or those with smaller eyes.
Another benefit to classic lash extensions is the reduced treatment time. Due to classic lashes being one extension per natural lash, the entire process of hand-making fans used in Hybrid and Russian sets is not required. Instead, classics can be taken directly from the strip, ready to apply to the natural lash. The absence of fan-making during this treatment can speed up treatment times significantly in comparison to hybrid and volume sets, making the experience more comfortable for both the client and lash tech, as well as allowing for more sets to be done in a day. This is another reason Classics could be a more favourable treatment for clients who don't like laying down for as long or who have less time for appointments.
Due to the shorter treatment time, lash technicians tend to charge less for classic lash treatments than other styles of lash extensions, so if cost is a major factor this may influence clients decision to have this treatment. For lash techs, Classic lashes may also be more cost-effective in that you can create more sets out of a standard classic lash tray than Russian, however this is dependent on the amount of lashes used based on the clients' natural lashes and desired look.
As previously mentioned, classic lashes are applied as one individual extension to each natural lash, so they may not be suitable for clients with sparse, gappy natural lashes, especially if they are looking to minimise the appearance of any gaps. Classic lashes aren't fanned, and therefore will simply follow the map of the natural lashes, extending and enhancing their current appearance. Therefore, classics may even enhance the appearance of sparseness or gaps, so for these clients a hybrid set may be better to fill out the space where little or no natural lashes are.
Due to the style and application method of classic lash extensions, regardless of natural lash sparseness, this style of lashes will appear lighter and less full. Whilst this is ideal for clients looking to get a natural-appearing set, lash loss tends to be more noticeable than hybrid or Russian sets due to the absence of fans. Therefore, more regular infills may be required where the natural lash loss is more prominent on the eye with classics.
How to apply Classic Lash Extensions
Prep the lashes - apply tape and/or under eye gel pads to secure the bottom lashes out of the way. If necessary, bathe and prime the lashes using a lash shampoo and Pink Creation primer. Remember, not every clients' natural lashes need priming - this step is designed to remove excess oils if present.
Choose the type of Classic Lashes - from analysing the condition of the natural lashes and consulting with your client on their desired look, decide on the lengths, thickness and style of classics (black or brown, standard or flat) to be used.
The application - prep is complete, now time to get lashing! Classic lashes are applied using a 1:1 application method; this means one classic lash is applied per each natural lash.
Glue dipping - how you dip your lash in the adhesive can hugely affect the outcome and retention of your set. For best results and to obtain the correct amount of glue on the individual lash, slide the lash into the centre of the glue in a horizontal motion, atleast approximately 2mm in. When removing the lash from the glue, slide the lash back out horizontally in a slow, steady motion. If the lash is removed too quickly, or in an upward motion, this can cause excess glue to accumulate. This applies for both black and clear adhesives.
(Correct Lash & Glue Placement)
When applying classic extensions, it is important to apply them as straight to the natural lash as possible, as extensions going in wrong directions will be more visible due to the absence of fans. For classic lash application, we recommend the following tweezers for picking and placing:>
For ease of isolation of the natural lashes, we recommend the following tweezers:
When doing classic lash sets, it is important to cover as many natural lashes as possible, due to the lighter overall look. Therefore, we would suggest the layering technique. Layering is the method of lifting up a layer of the lashes using a gentle tape such as silicone gel, or eyelid tape, to access all the natural lashes that would otherwise potentially be missed. This technique will assist in maximum coverage of the lashes but be mindful not to lash baby lashes that cannot yet take the weight of a classic lash extension, or opt for a lighter thickness depending on the condition and length of the new lash, as applying a heavy extension to a baby lash could potentially cause damage.
Finishing touches - once you've covered as many of the natural lashes as possible go through the set and check for any stickies. This is where lash extensions have become stuck to each other during the curing process, and can cause pain and damage to the lashes if left. This is a short, simple step that should do at the end of every set.
We then recommend using a bonder/sealant such as our Pink Elixir. Apply this to the base of the extensions using a microfibre brush to assist in better retention. This step is highly suggest specifically for classic lashes, whereby the obviousness of lash loss tents to be greater than volume sets, and standard classics cannot be wrapped around the natural lash as a handmade fan could. Therefore, maximising retention in other ways such as with our Elixir or Nano mister is strongly recommended.
Remove the under-eye gel pads and/or tape and offer the client a fan for any mild stinging due to adhesive fumes.
Classic Lash Extension Aftercare
Looking after your lash extensions post-appointment is essential. Following the proper aftercare will assist in maintaining the appearance of the lashes, aids in retention and helps to prevent germs or bacteria building up at the lash line leading to infections etc. This is why it is so it is important to educate clients to follow the right steps. Lash extensions can be cleaned using a lash cleanser or shampoo, such as our Pink Refine Lash Shampoo. These are great products to retail on to your clients, including aftercare kits, to ensure your client has everything they need to maintain clean, healthy lashes and extensions. A benefit of classics, however, is that the lashes maintain their appearance more than Hybrid or Russian lashes; excess dirt and oils on the lashes can more noticeably on volume lash sets as it can cause the fans to close - an impossibility with classic lashes! That being said, cleaning extensions is still imperative, regardless of the set.
Classic lash extensions are a staple in the lash industry, and with changing trends bring 'natural' back into fashion, it is great to have as much knowledge on them as possible. From information on what they are, to who should have them and how to apply them, this blog should assist you in getting up to speed with all things Classic Lashes, and here at Pinkfishes, we supply all you could need to create classic sets from start to finish.
Want to expand your skillset and get a qualification in Classic Lash Extensions? We offer a wide range of courses here, at Pinkfishes Training Academyincluding Pinkfishes Classic Eyelash Extension Course, the perfect beginner friendly course to get you started in the lash industry!
