Lash extensions are the ideal treatment for those looking to achieve fuller, longer or more enhanced lashes, but for how long? In this blog, we will break down all you need to know on retention and what affects it, whilst primarily answering one of the most asked question by clients: how long do lash extensions last?

How Long Do Lash Extensions Last?

On average lash extensions can last for 4+ weeks, with an infill required every 2-3 weeks to maintain the health and overall appearance of the lashes. However, this approximate time frame is dependant on a variety of factors, such as the glue used, lash prep and application, each clients' natural lash cycle, their lifestyle, and the aftercare carried out following an appointment. So, whilst these are average time periods, it may not apply precisely for every client.

Natural Lash Cycle

Even with perfect application, proper aftercare and following every advisory once getting lash extensions, the natural lash cycle itself prevents lash extensions from lasting forever. The natural lash cycle is the growth process in which our individual natural lash hairs go through over approximately a 60-90 day cycle. During this time, a singular individual lash goes through 3 key phases before shedding - Anagen, Catagen and Telogen. 

(Diagram of natural lash growth cycle)

So, you may be wondering why lash extensions don't last the full 6-8 weeks before all falling out, and why infills are needed 2-3 weeks from your initial appointment. A key factor to remember is that this growth cycle applies to each natural lash individually, and your natural lashes won't all be at the exact same point in their cycle. On average per day, we lose around 1-5 natural upper lashes out of an approximate 90-150 per eye, meaning that natural lashes will shed at various times. Therefore, infills are essential after 2-3 weeks for maintaining a full look without any gaps from shed lashes or unevenness from outgrown (telogen) lashes. Remember, seeing a lash or two on your pillow, or drop down your face during the day, may not be any fault of your own or your lash techs.

What Happens During an Infill Appointment?

As previously mentioned, lash extension infill appointments are essential for the up-keep and maintenance of your lash extension appearance. Infill appointments are recommended every 2-3 weeks, with the purpose of removing outgrown lash extensions from the natural lash in the Telogen phase. While filling both these gaps, and gaps from previous lash shedding or lash extension loss.

(3-week outgrown Russian Lash Fans by Shannon Curiel & Ellen Gilbert)

Outgrown lashes can appear like a full set with no need for an infill to a client, however, these lashes are likely to begin to droop or fall out, leaving unwanted gaps. Lashes that are too grown out will put a lot of strain on the natural lash, which can cause damage if left for too long. During an infill appointment, lashes such as the above images are removed in a non-damaging way like the banana peel method, and a new lash is placed toward the root of the natural lash. In technical terms, with growth like this, we can assume that the fan was applied when the natural lash was in its Early/Mid Anagen phase, and is now in its telogen phase, nearing its shedding time.

Beyond the 3 week mark, a greater majority of extensions can look like this, despite appearing as normal when looking in the mirror, meaning a high percentage will need to be removed and replaced with a new extension. This is why lash techs will often charge for a full set after the recommended time. So, trust your lash tech when they say infills are required a maximum of 2-3 weeks after the prior appointment!

Prep & Application

Whilst the natural lash cycle unavoidably stunts the length of time that lash extensions last, other factors can influence the durability and retention of lash extensions, such as the prep and application during lash extension appointments.

Pre-Treatment Prep

The prep and condition of the natural lashes prior to application can hugely influence how long the set is going to last. Here are some things to consider, and tips to reduce the likeliness of poor lash extension retention:

• Clean natural lashes - having a blank canvas to work on when applying lash extensions is essential for getting maximum retention out of your sets. Ensure to remove all dirt, dead skin cells, make up and oils prior to application using a lash shampoo and/or cleanser.
• Remove excess oils - lash primers should be used selectively for clients with oily lashes, as they remove excess oils that can prevent proper adhesion. However, overuse or use on naturally dry lashes can over-dehydrate the hair, which may negatively impact adhesive performance and retention.

• Lash pH – natural lashes sit in a slightly acidic environment, but everyday factors such as skincare products, makeup, oils, sweat, hormones, and medication can disrupt the lash surface. If the lashes are too oily or overly dehydrated, this can interfere with how effectively the adhesive bonds and cures. Applying a pH balancer after cleansing and before extension application helps to optimise the lash surface, promoting better adhesion and longer-lasting retention. Although often overlooked, this step can make a significant difference in overall results.

(Pinkfishes Cleanser, Primer, Bonder/Sealant & pH Balancer)

Lash Extension Application

The way in which a lash extension are applied to the natural lash can have a huge impact on the retention of lash extension sets. There are various ways that can aid retention, so sets last longer and maintain their appearance.

• Flat Classic Lashes - Classic lashes are a lash extension set where one singular lash extension is applied to each natural lash, and can therefore be more noticeably gappy when the lashes begin to fall out. Flat lashes are simply an alternative to classic lashes when creating classic sets! Flat lashes have a rhomboid base, whereas classic lash extensions have a round base. The shape of Flat lash extensions mean they can bond more effectively to the natural lash, meaning they can have a longer retention than traditional classic eyelash extensions. 

(Standard Classic vs Flat Classic Lash Base)

• Lash Wrapping - Standard handmade Russian fans and Angel lashes consist of multiple individual fibres, making them suitable for wrapping techniques during application. Lash wrapping allows the base of the fan to gently mould around the natural lash, increasing the surface area of contact. This creates a more secure bond, improving stability and reducing the likelihood of extensions detaching prematurely.

(Diagram of Russian Fan applied with wrapping technique)

• Environment - Lash extension adhesives are sensitive to the environment they are used in, and will only perform and cure to a satisfactory standard in the conditions specified for the specific glue. Ensuring your treatment room is at the correct temperature and humidity required for your adhesive will assist in better curing and drying times, allowing the extension to bond to the natural lash for longer lasting sets. Our Hygrometer is a great way of measuring this, and also acts as a storage tank for your adhesives.
• Adhesive Choice -  Selecting an adhesive that matches your working speed is essential for achieving optimal retention. Using an adhesive with a curing speed faster than your application pace can result in poor attachment, as the adhesive may begin to set before the extension is properly placed onto the natural lash. This can lead to extensions detaching easily during brushing. On the other hand, using an adhesive that cures slower than your working speed can increase the risk of improper bonding and stickies, which not only affect retention but may also compromise the health of the natural lashes.

• Bonder/Sealant - Finish your lash extension treatment off with Pinkfishes Elixir, a bonder and sealant for lash extensions. Use it to maximise your lash retention and make the treatment more comfortable for your clients. This glue activator instantly bonds adhesive fumes making the eyelash application more comfortable for your clients and reduces the chances of irritation. It also acts as a sealant so when applied along the glue line will aid in retention!

Aftercare

The longevity of lash extensions depends greatly on how well aftercare is followed post-appointment. Many factors after your treatment can impact retention, so maintaining proper aftercare is essential for achieving the best results.

If you’ve noticed your lash extensions shedding without a natural lash attached, this may be due to several factors, including but not limited to:

• Poor Lash Cleansing - poor lash cleansing can significantly impact retention. Cleaning the lashes at least once a day using a lash shampoo, such as Pink Refine, is essential for maintaining longer-lasting extensions, as well as preserving the softness of volume sets. A quality lash shampoo helps to remove the build-up of dirt, oils, dead skin cells, and residue that can otherwise break down the adhesive, leading to premature shedding of the extensions.
  
  
• Intense Heat/Steam Exposure - exposure to intense heat or steam, such as in saunas or sunbeds, can affect the durability of lash extension sets. Sweat can cause a build up of oils on the lash line, breaking down the bond of the glue and causing the extensions to fall from the natural lash before their time.
• Sleeping Habits - sleeping habits can impact both the appearance and retention of lash extensions. Lying on your side or face down may cause friction against the pillow, as well as pressure on the lashes, which can lead to extensions becoming misaligned, losing their shape, or shedding prematurely. In some cases, excessive friction may also place stress on the natural lashes. For optimal retention and to maintain a neat lash appearance, sleeping on your back is recommended. Many clients also choose to use a silk pillowcase, as it helps to reduce friction and minimise potential damage.
• Picking & Rubbing - picking and rubbing your lash extensions is a major no when it comes to aftercare. Not only can this affect the appearance of your set, but it can also be harmful to the health of your natural lashes. Excessive touching, rubbing, or picking can cause extensions to shed prematurely. If a natural lash is pulled out before completing its growth cycle, it may take several weeks for a new lash to grow through, which can result in gaps—even after an infill appointment.  Additionally, excessively touching your lashes can transfer natural oils, dirt, and residue onto the lash line. This build-up can weaken the adhesive bond, leading to reduced retention over time.

  
  

 Lifestyle

It is important to take the client's lifestyle, such as hobbies or work, into account when deciphering how long lash extensions last. Clients who engage in more active hobbies or routines, such as going to the gym or travelling to hot destinations, may find that their lash extensions last for less time than others. This can be due to various factors such as sweat, suncream or intense heat. To minimise this risk, it is imperative that proper aftercare is carried out such as lash shampooing; this can assist in removing any excess oils/dirt from sweat, which could otherwise affect the adhesive bond.

To ensure clients are carrying out aftercare with all the correct products required, we suggest retailing our Lash Shampoo or Aftercare Kits at your appointments. This brings peace of mind, knowing your clients walk away with all they'll need to practice proper aftercare, ready for their next appointment!

From reading this blog, we hope that your understanding of how long lash extensions last has been made clearer. Visiting some inevitable reasons for the loss of lash extensions, factors that can affect the retention, and with some expert tips on how to maximise sets and their appearance to the fullest extent. So, whilst the most simple answer is 4+ weeks with infills required after 2-3 weeks, we hope you now have a better awareness of all the factors that go in to the possible answers of how long lash extensions last, and what you can do as a lash tech, or as a client, to aid retention to its highest potential.

For any further questions, advice or information on our products or training courses, call us at 01245 475912, email us at info@pinkfishes.com, or visit our website at pinkfishes.com.